Four years ago, upon reaching the age of 60, a significant shift occurred. The years leading up to this milestone were characterized by strict dietary restrictions: meticulously monitoring caloric intake, scrutinizing the numbers on the scale, and prioritizing purity over enjoyment.
Valerie Bertinelli, who will soon turn 64, expressed her realization one day in February at her residence in Los Angeles. She articulated, “What didn’t resonate with me was living my life based on a numerical value. Regardless of that number, it would never be satisfactory.”
Her latest cookbook, titled “Indulge,” released this month by Harvest, symbolizes a departure from the constraints that had governed her existence. The book’s name serves as both an offering and a reclaiming of what some critics perceive as a taboo concept.
“Why can’t we savor life’s pleasures every single day?” Bertinelli questioned. (She possesses a delightful habit of interchanging expletives with their more broadcast-friendly equivalents). “We only have this one life.”
The recipes featured in the book exude unapologetic delight: from a colorful vegetable galette to white chocolate chip cookies infused with zesty lemon and lime flavors. Bertinelli transforms the bitter kumquats from her backyard into a tantalizing dish, where the fruit’s sharpness mellows under heat, bringing out the sweetness of the rind.
For Bertinelli, a former sitcom star turned Food Network luminary, “Indulge” emerges following a period marked by personal losses and emotional voids. The passing of her first husband, the musician [ppp1], and the challenging divorce from her second husband, the businessman Tom Vitale, finalized in 2022, left profound imprints. The narratives interwoven with these recipes delve into themes of healing and forgiveness. This book is her way of confronting and quieting the persistent thoughts that have plagued her for years.
Raised in a nomadic family due to her father’s role at General Motors (“I humorously refer to myself as the GM Brat,” she quipped), Bertinelli embarked on her acting journey at the age of 12, experiencing rejection early on. “I must have gone on 99 to 100 auditions before landing my first commercial,” she reminisced. “That can truly affect a child’s psyche.”
Her breakthrough arrived in 1975 when Norman Lear, the show’s creator, decided to reshoot the pilot for the sitcom that would catapult her to fame. Portraying Barbara Cooper, the younger of two daughters in a divorced single-parent household, Bertinelli charmed audiences with her quick wit and sharp one-liners.
Throughout the show’s nine-season run, Bertinelli evolved before the nation’s eyes, earning two Golden Globes and widespread recognition. “One Day at a Time” served as her personal learning ground, she reflected. “It was like my college experience, in a way. I was learning to interact with adults and honing the craft I was passionate about.”
Her celebrity status introduced her to her first husband, a rock star, whom she married at the tender age of 20 in 1981. Bertinelli’s Indonesian mother-in-law, affectionately referred to as “Mrs. Van Halen” to this day, introduced her to a world of exotic salads like gado-gado and delectable banana fritters known as pisang goreng, a departure from the traditional English-Irish fare she grew up with. “These were entirely new culinary experiences for me,” she shared. “And they were unbelievably delicious.” (The cookbook prominently features sambal, a popular Indonesian condiment.)
Despite her deep connection to cooking, Bertinelli remains puzzled by her shift from acting to the culinary world after years in the entertainment industry. “Who really knows why?” she pondered, chuckling. Her inaugural cookbook in 2012, “ppp2,” was a tribute to the culinary wisdom passed down by her Italian grandmother and other female relatives.
However, her foray into food television truly commenced in 2015. Following the conclusion of the TV Land sitcom “Hot in Cleveland,” in which she held a leading role for five years, Bertinelli unexpectedly received an offer to host “Kids Baking Championship” on the Food Network.
This marked the beginning of Bertinelli’s second act as a culinary personality on television, a path she had not initially envisioned but one that resonated with her audience.
The sight of Bertinelli on food television evoked a sense of nostalgia for Kathleen Collins, author of “Watching What We Eat,” who grew up watching Bertinelli on “One Day at a Time.” To Collins, Bertinelli represented a relatable figure from her youth, and seeing her transition to the Food Network felt like witnessing Barbara Cooper mature and guide women of her generation. Collins noted the enduring appeal of Bertinelli’s youthful energy, making her a natural fit for food television.
While the realm of food television traditionally spotlighted larger-than-life personalities such as [ppp3], and [ppp4], the early 2000s witnessed a shift towards character-driven cooking shows, making Bertinelli an ideal candidate for the genre. Collins discovered in her interviews with Food Network executives that Bertinelli’s warmth, approachability, and down-to-earth demeanor were highly valued traits. “Valerie exudes that welcoming, relatable charm that both executives and viewers seek,” Collins remarked.
Despite her prominent role on the Food Network, Bertinelli found her relationship with food strained over the years due to personal challenges. Criticisms about her weight began to erode her self-esteem, leading her to internalize the negative comments.
Gradually, Bertinelli recognized that she was using food as a band-aid for deeper, unresolved emotional wounds, playing a perpetual game of emotional whack-a-mole. She realized that suppressing these feelings with food only provided temporary relief. “It’s not the food itself that’s harmful,” she concluded. “It’s the manner in which and the reasons why we consume it. If we eat mindlessly or to numb our emotions.”
“Indulge” aligns with a recent trend in food literature that challenges strict dietary regimens and promotes indulgence and comfort.
Emma Specter, author of the upcoming book “More, Please,” which delves into binge eating disorder, views this cultural shift as a necessary departure from conventional diet culture norms. Specter expressed frustration with what she perceives as disingenuous diet and wellness brands that condescend to consumers. The weight-loss industry in the United States ballooned to nearly $90 billion in 2023, a figure expected to rise further this year. “As a society, we deserve better, and it’s heartening to see this sentiment gain acceptance,” Specter emphasized.
For Specter, reshaping her relationship with food took time, eventually realizing that food should be a source of pleasure, not shame. She finds solace in the idea that Bertinelli’s cookbook may inspire others to embark on a similar journey of self-discovery.
Bertinelli acknowledges that her own path to healing is ongoing. Her tenure with the Food Network concluded last year following the expiration of her contract, much to the disappointment of her loyal followers on social media, though she remains unperturbed. (“Business is business,” she remarked diplomatically.) Looking ahead, she envisions a future where her acting and culinary careers intersect, perhaps portraying a cookbook author or chef in a sitcom. Bertinelli acknowledges her good fortune, recognizing that starring in two beloved sitcoms is a rare privilege that few actresses experience.
Nevertheless, she affirms, “I’ll never cease to find joy in cooking.”