Pioneering Vegetarian Delights from Vilna: Recipes That Were Ahead of Their Time

Yes, vegetarianism existed in 1930s Lithuania. And one woman wrote a cookbook all about it.

Vegetarianism Through the Ages

Long before vegetarianism became a well-recognized dietary choice, each generation rediscovered its merits independently. Our ancestors likely found joy and satisfaction in meals that featured only vegetables and legumes, much like many do today. This historical enjoyment challenges the modern notion that earlier societies were primarily meat-dependent.

Vilnius: A Cradle of Vegetarianism in the 1930s

It’s a lesser-known fact that Vilnius, Lithuania, was a hub for vegetarian dining in the 1930s, highlighted by the renowned Dieto-Jarska Jadłodajnia, or Vegetarian Bistro. This eatery became a beacon for those seeking meatless meals, partly due to the kosher dietary laws followed by the city’s significant Jewish community which kept dairy and meat separate. The economic strains of the Great Depression and subsequent food scarcities made vegetarian meals a practical choice, further embedding vegetarianism into the local culture.

Fania Lewando: Culinary Innovator and Vegetarian Advocate

Fania Lewando was not just running a restaurant; she was on a mission to redefine vegetarian cuisine in Vilnius. Her belief in the virtues of vegetarianism was profound—she saw vegetables not as mere substitutes for meat but as superior and ethical alternatives. Her efforts went beyond her bistro; she taught cooking classes, authored a comprehensive cookbook, and even pitched her recipes to the H.J. Heinz company in England.

Lewando’s Culinary Legacy and Cookbook

Fania Lewando’s life was tragically cut short by the events of World War II, but her culinary legacy lives on through her cookbook, “Vegetarish-Dietisher Kokhbukh: 400 Recipes Made Exclusively From Vegetables.” First published in 1938, it offered an extensive array of vegetarian dishes, from kugels and cholents to innovative salads and juices that feel modern even today. Despite its initial scarcity, a copy was rediscovered and eventually translated into English, revealing the timelessness of Lewando’s recipes.

The Resurgence of Lewando’s Recipes

In 2015, “The Vilna Vegetarian Cookbook” was republished with new insights and a historical essay, bringing Lewando’s pioneering work back into the culinary spotlight. The launch event recreated the ambiance of Dieto-Jarska Jadłodajnia complete with a menu that featured some of Lewando’s most beloved recipes, proving the enduring appeal of her vegetarian philosophy.

Reflections on Vegetarian Cooking from Vilna

Lewando’s cookbook was not just a collection of recipes; it was a manifesto on the joys and health benefits of vegetarianism, written with an authority that commanded respect and admiration. Her approach to vegetarian cooking was both a culinary and a cultural act, documenting a rich legacy of vegetarianism that enriched not just Jewish cuisine but also the global vegetarian movement.


This exploration of Vilnius’s vegetarian heritage through Fania Lewando’s visionary culinary efforts showcases the depth and richness of vegetarian cuisine long before it became a global trend. Her work not only provided delicious alternatives to meat-based dishes but also demonstrated a commitment to ethical eating and cultural preservation.

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