The trend of “new Chinese style” fashion has surged on Chinese social media in recent years, as young individuals blend traditional cultural elements with modern flair. This fusion has garnered attention from both local and international brands.
In 2023, the volume of posts related to “new Chinese style” on Xiaohongshu (Little Red Book) saw a remarkable 390% year-on-year increase, as reported by analytics platform Qiangua. Celebrities showcasing their interpretations of this style during the recent Spring Festival significantly boosted its visibility, making it a leading trend on Weibo.
A subset of this trend has emerged within the luxury segment, where consumers are exploring exquisite fabrics and craftsmanship deeply rooted in Chinese heritage, giving rise to what is now known as “Chinese old money style.”
The growing popularity of this trend not only presents an opportunity to preserve traditional Chinese crafts but also allows discerning fashion and lifestyle brands to enhance their offerings for upscale consumers.
Similar to the concept of “old money” in Western culture, the Chinese “old money style” signifies an appreciation for historical lineage and refined taste, often described as “noble temperament” in China. While incorporating traditional design elements, the luxury of this style predominantly lies in the utilization of traditional craftsmanship and textiles.
Fashion blogger Ada, in a post on Xiaohongshu, highlighted various iconic garments such as buttoned jackets, ink-printed skirts, and qipaos. Key elements include knot buttons, Mandarin collars, intricate embroidery, and gambiered Canton gauze.
Gu Xiaosi, an advocate for heritage techniques and author of Huaxia Wardrobe, mentioned to Jing Daily that the “Chinese old money style” integrates numerous traditional fabrics classified as intangible cultural heritage, such as Song brocade and Zhangzhou velvet satin.
Xie Yige, the founder of Tangxindan, a Chinese luxury fashion and embroidery brand, expressed how the surge in popularity of these Chinese styles has significantly boosted her brand’s visibility. The alignment of “Chinese old money style” with Tangxindan’s design philosophy has not only increased the brand’s revenue but also enhanced the popularity of its top-selling products.
Actress Yang Mi sparked discussions among netizens by donning a Song brocade top and jade jewelry in a birthday photo shared on Weibo. This fusion of Oriental charm and luxury attire has resonated with audiences, with Yang frequently showcasing this style at various events. Other Chinese actresses like Zhao Liying, Xu Jiao, and Zhao Lusi have also embraced the “new Chinese style,” inspiring their millions of followers.
Xie emphasized that the popularity of the “new Chinese style” reflects a shift in consumer preferences towards Chinese aesthetics and cultural confidence. Consumers now value ethereal and serene aesthetics over flamboyance and grandeur.
The Chinese government’s efforts to safeguard and promote the country’s intangible cultural heritage have played a vital role in revitalizing traditional craftsmanship. Suzhou embroidery, Beijing embroidery, and Yun brocade, among others, are being rejuvenated by modern designers. These crafts not only showcase exceptional skills but also carry deep cultural meanings, meeting the demands of young consumers for personalization and cultural identity.
For luxury consumers, the “Chinese old money style” offers a broader array of choices when selecting high-end brands. Gu noted that investing in high-end Chinese brands provides value for money, superior craftsmanship, cultural confidence, and identity recognition. Additionally, Chinese styles complement Asian skin tones and facial features, enhancing the overall effect when worn.
Looking ahead, Xie believes that consumers expect high-end brands to represent traditional Chinese culture effectively. The rise of the “Chinese old money style” presents an opportunity for domestic Chinese brands that blend tradition with innovation to enter the high-end market successfully.
Fashion brand M Essential, founded by Ma Kai, has excelled in this space by infusing a contemporary twist into classic Oriental aesthetics using premium materials like raw silk, brocade, yarn, and velvet. Their meticulously crafted luxury pieces have become synonymous with the “Chinese old money style.”
Samuel Gui Yang and other local brands have also transitioned Chinese aesthetics into high-end fashion, embodying the essence of Chinese culture in their designs.
Some brands enhance their cultural relevance by collaborating with projects or practitioners focused on intangible cultural heritage. Tangxindan, for instance, collaborated with local embroiderers to elevate haute couture pieces with luxurious details, showcasing the exquisite art of Jinyin caixiu, a hand-sewn embroidery tradition using gold and silver threads from Ningbo.
Despite the increasing popularity of heritage-inspired Chinese styles, they have yet to dominate the mainstream consumer market and are often associated with traditional festivals like Chinese New Year. Xie highlighted the challenge of normalizing these styles further to promote wider acceptance.
The emergence of these styles reflects the cultural confidence of China’s youth and underscores the global influence of Chinese design. China’s rich heritage of traditional craftsmanship is a global treasure, akin to the craftsmanship promoted by Western luxury brands.
Luxury brands like Loewe have engaged Chinese craftsmanship and artisans for special product releases. Marni and Dior have also drawn inspiration from Chinese culture for their collections, showcasing the growing influence of Chinese design on the global fashion stage.
With sustained global interest in China’s market and culture, the “Chinese old money style” is poised for continued growth, propelling local brands onto the global platform and enriching the cultural offerings of global luxury brands.