Jeffrey and Kevin Pang, the father-son collaborators of “A Very Chinese Cookbook,” collaborate on making shumai together. (Photo courtesy of Kevin White/America’s Test Kitchen)
When Kevin Pang, an acclaimed food writer who has received the James Beard award, received an email from his parents urging him to watch a video, he initially brushed it aside, a common response to parental media suggestions. However, after a follow-up from his mother, he reluctantly clicked on the video link only to discover that his parents, based in Seattle, had launched their own cooking channel on YouTube, garnering over a million views. Surprisingly, they were attracting more viewers than Kevin, a digital media professional. This led to his reflective essay, “My Father, the YouTube Star,” published in [2016].
Presently, Pang serves as the digital editorial director at America’s Test Kitchen and, since January, has taken on the role of general manager at ATK’s Cooking School. Together with his father, Jeffrey, they host an ATK cooking show. Recently, they released a new cookbook titled “A Very Chinese Cookbook: 100 Recipes from China and Beyond (Still Embracing the Chinese Essence)” in partnership with America’s Test Kitchen, inviting Chinese cuisine enthusiasts to explore dishes ranging from Shu Mai and Cold Sesame Noodles to [unspecified dishes].
In a heartwarming anecdote, Jeffrey used to prepare [a particular dish] for Kevin whenever he returned home from college, ensuring his son could enjoy it without delay.
In a recent interview, the duo discussed their family bond, recipe experimentation, and Lunar New Year traditions.
Q: Can you describe the process behind creating this cookbook? It seems like extensive testing was involved for each recipe.
Kevin: America’s Test Kitchen, with a legacy of 30 years, distinguishes itself through its meticulous recipe development process. The rigorous testing can be almost exasperating. Each recipe undergoes multiple iterations, with an average cost of $11,000 for development. This approach involves creating various versions, collecting feedback from home testers, and refining the recipe until it is foolproof.
When this level of rigor is applied to our family recipes, there were instances where the versions crafted by our test cooks surpassed my parents’ originals, such as my dad’s Taste of Szechuan beef shank.
Jeffrey: My cooking inspiration stems from my mother, who taught me how to cook without specifying exact measurements for ingredients like sugar, salt, or cornstarch. Working with America’s Test Kitchen, where recipes are meticulously refined through repeated testing, elevated my dishes. While I cherished my recipe, the modified versions suggested by the team tasted even better.
Q: What message do you hope readers take away from your book?
Kevin: In the United States, there is a significant fondness for Chinese cuisine, yet many individuals feel intimidated to cook it. We aim to dispel this intimidation by showcasing that Chinese cooking can be approachable and enjoyable. By categorizing each dish on a one to four difficulty scale, we demonstrate that many recipes are simple, utilizing common ingredients even for those unfamiliar with Chinese cooking. We want to convey that Chinese cuisine is more accessible, flavorful, and wholesome than perceived. Even if Chinese cooking seems daunting, we encourage everyone to give it a try. The water is warm, and we aspire to alter preconceived notions.
Q: With Lunar New Year approaching, how does your family celebrate?
Kevin: During Lunar New Year, Chinese traditions often incorporate symbolic foods or dishes with auspicious meanings. For example, we prepare crispy fried sesame balls, shaped like spheres to symbolize prosperity. Tofu, resembling a cube, signifies a bountiful harvest, while fish is consumed as the word “fish” sounds like “surplus” in Chinese, symbolizing abundance in wealth. Lunar New Year not only emphasizes family togetherness and tradition but also embodies aspirations for prosperity, good health, safe travels, and success, with food playing a pivotal role in manifesting these wishes.
Q: How has your collaborative work influenced your relationship?
Kevin: Our shared culinary endeavors have remarkably improved our relationship, fostering harmony and reducing conflicts. Growing up in different cultural environments – myself in North America and my father in China – we found common ground through food. While our interests diverge, engaging in food-related discussions has been a unifying factor. Food has diverted our attention from disagreements, offering a platform for meaningful interactions.
Jeffrey: Despite our differing interests, food has bridged the gap between us. While I may not share Kevin’s enthusiasm for baseball or music preferences, our conversations revolving around food have deepened our connection.
Kevin: It wasn’t baseball but a simple sesame ball that initiated a positive shift in our dynamic. Who would have thought?
Q: What are your future plans?
Kevin: Currently immersed in promoting our book through a tour and conducting cooking classes nationwide, our goal is to advocate for Chinese cuisine diversity. We aim to dispel the misconception that Chinese food is homogenous, emphasizing the vast culinary landscape within China. From Cantonese to Sichuanese and Shanghainese cuisines, each region offers distinct flavors and dishes. Our focus is on celebrating this culinary richness and showcasing the versatility of Chinese cuisine, beyond the stereotypical dishes like General Tso’s chicken and orange beef. China, gastronomically speaking, resembles a continent with a myriad of culinary treasures waiting to be explored.