Exciting Arrival: Mission Chinese’s Chinatown Pop-Up

A return to the classics — and a few new dishes, too

A few days ago, Mission Chinese emerged at the location of a restaurant in the heart of Chinatown, situated at 43 Mott Street, by Bayard Street. The establishment introduced a Japanese-influenced Chinese menu. Their announcement detailed that Mission Chinese would occupy the space from 5 p.m. every Wednesday through Sunday until the end of the summer. Concurrently, Cha Kee would offer a Hong Kong-style menu during the morning and afternoon hours.

The interior of the new hybrid restaurant, Cha Kee + Mission Chinese, features a vibrant back-lit wall menu reminiscent of the original New York Mission Chinese. The space is divided by long communal tables, adorned with hanging foliage and unique lighting resembling metal lily pads. The eclectic décor aligns with chef Danny Bowien’s distinctive design aesthetic, albeit without any trace of [missing text].

Chef [missing text], personally guided a friend and me through the 18-item menu, predominantly sourced from the original San Francisco Mission Chinese. Notably, the beef chow fun was adopted from the Cha Kee menu. We opted for a mix of classic and innovative dishes, including the renowned Chongqing chicken wings and the newly introduced Sichuan pickles.

The incendiary Chongqing chicken wings made a bold return, retaining their iconic appearance with dried red chiles and an intensified peppercorn and chili heat. The complex flavor profile includes hints of cinnamon, fennel, clove, cumin, and star anise, creating a memorable culinary experience.

The current iteration of Mission Chinese pays homage to its San Francisco roots by collaborating with veteran Chinese cooks from Cha Kee. The menu reflects Bowien’s inventive flair, with standout dishes like the kung pao pastrami and the West Lake lamb dumplings, showcasing bold flavors and creative presentations.

Among the new additions, Jacky’s spicy Sprite noodles offer a unique twist with a refreshing soda pop-infused broth. The meal culminated with a delightful dessert featuring a lemony granita topped with Pop Rocks, adding a playful touch to the dining experience.

Mission Chinese’s latest offerings mark a return to its foundational principles established nearly two decades ago: delivering robust and innovative Sichuan-inspired dishes within the realm of Chinese American cuisine, now nestled in the heart of Chinatown.

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